Surprising Sulawesi, mysterious Moluccas

In this blog I'm sharing with you my trip diary of my 3-week birding adventure to Sulawesi & the mysterious Moluccas back in May 2024.

Birding in Lore Lindu National Park: A Journey into Sulawesi's Wild Heart

Lore Lindu National Park, in the heart of Sulawesi and one the largest remaining mountaneous rain forests, offers an exhilarating mix of wildlife and culture that makes every birding moment unforgettable. My guides, Nurlin and Kasman, expertly navigated me through the park’s diverse habitats, from the lush forests around Lake Tambing to the rugged Anaso track, home to some of the island's rarest species.

One of the first major highlights was ticking off 20 species within just two hours of arrival. Among these was the elusive Geomalia, a small, brown bird that had me on edge after initially failing to find it. But perseverance paid off when it finally appeared, a moment of quiet triumph.

Throughout our hikes, I was fortunate to see several endemic species, such as the Malia, Sulawesi Drongo, and Sulawesi Leaf Warbler, along with some truly memorable birds like the Satanic Nightjar, which perched so still I could snap a photo with my iPhone. The rare Cinnabar Boobook also made an appearance after a thrilling search, and the excitement from my guides was contagious as they celebrated the perfect shot after years of not seeing it.
Night birding brought us closer to the park’s nocturnal residents. Although the Sulawesi Masked Owl and Speckled Boobook remained elusive, we were treated to a surprise encounter with a Bear Cuscus high in the trees—a rare sight indeed. As we hiked deeper into the park, I also had the privilege of visiting ancient megaliths, where local guides shared stories of their 3,000-year-old history and their connection to the land.

The birding wasn't without its challenges. Despite our best efforts, the Sulawesi Woodcock remained hidden. But even in its absence, the rich sounds and smells of the jungle made the search deeply rewarding. By the time we ventured to Palu Bay, the heat of the lowlands was a stark contrast to the cool mountain air of the park, but the birding continued with sightings like the Javan Pond Heron.

One of the most memorable parts of this trip, however, was the off-the-beaten-path journey to find the Sulawesi Nightjar. Nurlin and Kasman have worked hard to create a safe space for birds in the area, keeping hunters at bay and teaching local communities about conservation. It was in these quiet moments, amidst the jungle’s rhythm, that I felt the real magic of birding in Sulawesi.

Birding Adventures in Tangkoko National Park: A Paradise of Discovery

After a flight up north to Manado, I met my new guide, Rangga, and our driver, “T” (who prefers coffee, as he told us). Despite heavy rain greeting us on arrival, the journey to Tangkoko Hill Lodge was nothing short of exciting, with an immediate immersion into the area’s extraordinary biodiversity.

Tangkoko is known for its rare wildlife, and our first adventure was nothing short of magical. The Sulawesi Crested Macaques greeted us as we entered the park, and shortly after, we had the privilege of spotting the Spectral Tarsier—one of the park's most iconic residents. This small, wide-eyed nocturnal creature stole my heart as it emerged from the tree to begin its nightly hunt. The sound of cicadas acts as an alarm clock for the Tarsier, signaling when it’s time to wake up and start its insect hunt. Witnessing this behavior, especially when a whole group of Tarsier were visible was truly unique.

The next day, we ventured out early, searching for the Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill and kingfishers, including the Lilac Kingfisher and the Green-backed Kingfisher. Along the way, we met a group of Sulawesi Black Macaques, which have been the subject of behavioral research in the park. It was fascinating to learn how local guides and researchers have helped curb the monkeys’ once-aggressive behavior by stopping the feeding habits that led to it.
The heat and humidity in Tangkoko can be intense, with volcanic sand adding to the suffocating warmth. But the beauty of the area makes it all worth it. We even ventured into the mangroves by outrigger canoe, hoping to spot the Great-billed Kingfisher. The serene waters and the quiet of the mangroves were a perfect escape, even if the kingfisher was not to be found anywhere at first. But just as we were about to head back out in the rough open water, there it was, perched on a branch right in front of us. It felt like a reward for our patience, and we rushed to snap as many photos as possible as the boat rocked in the waves.

Throughout these adventures, I’ve felt an overwhelming sense of gratitude for the opportunity to experience Sulawesi’s wild beauty. The stunning landscapes, rare wildlife, and the warmth of the local guides have made this part of my journey unforgettable. As I sit back and reflect on these moments, I know that this adventure is one I will cherish forever.

Chasing the Maleo and Embracing the Unexpected in Sulawesi

With the birding list continuing to grow, Nurlin decided to change the plans and drive to Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park to meet one of the island’s most iconic birds—the Maleo. This unique species, endemic to Sulawesi, is a megapode known for its remarkable nesting behavior. The Maleo lays its eggs in the warm soil of natural hot springs, where the heat incubates them, allowing the birds to avoid sitting on their eggs like other species. These fascinating creatures, however, are endangered, and efforts to protect them are crucial.

Despite the rain that greeted us at the park, the excitement of the Maleo sighting was undeniable. We watched from the hide as the birds came down from the trees into the nesting grounds. As we waited, I was offered a natural umbrella made of lush greenery—a perfect solution to the downpour. In this park, park rangers take the Maleo eggs to a “Hatching Room,” where they are protected from predators. A hatchling, just two days old, was ready to be released, and I was given the honor of setting it free. I named it “Nurlin,” after my guide, whose care and expertise made this trip so unforgettable.

But the day didn’t go as planned. We had set out earlier in the morning with high hopes of spotting the elusive Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher and the Sulawesi Pitta. The guide suspected that recent fires in the area may have scared the Pitta away, and despite our best efforts to lure the Kingfisher, we came up empty-handed. It’s a reminder that birding is unpredictable, and the joy of seeing a bird in its natural habitat is made even sweeter by the challenges faced along the way.

While birding sometimes doesn’t go as planned, the unexpected moments—the rain-soaked hide, the release of a hatchling, and the excitement of Sulawesi’s endemic species—are what make this journey truly unforgettable. With every twist and turn, I find myself more immersed in the beauty of this place and the people who call it home.

An Unforgettable Adventure in Halmahera: From Scrubfowls to Standardwings

After Sulawesi, I embarked on a quite different birding journey through Halmahera, starting with an unexpected 19-hour boat trip from Manado to Ternate due to Mount Ruang's eruption. Upon arrival, we quickly set off for Halmahera to win back some precious time we had lost with the endless boat trip. The birding environment here was unique, with rare species such as the Moluccan Scops Owl, Moluccan and Ivory-Breasted Pittas, and the vibrant Paradise Kingfisher.

The trip took a “wet” turn as we ventured to the Moluccan Scrubfowl nesting grounds, navigating mangroves in the dark and heavy rain, end up pushing the outrigger boat back at low tide to the shore.. Despite the challenges, I was rewarded with sightings of this elusive bird after only 3 hours of waiting, making the adventure unforgettable.

My trip highlight

The following days led us to Aketajawe National Park, where we hiked through dense jungle to see the Wallace’s Standardwing Bird of Paradise. After a steep and challenging climb, we were treated to the breathtaking sight of the Standardwing in its natural display—a moment of true birding magic, the real highlight of my trip. The experience was both physically demanding and incredibly rewarding, culminating in one of the most memorable encounters of my life.

Thank you

I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to Kathrin from EastofWallace tours for helping me plan this trip and to Nurlin Djuni and his entire team, taking care of me during my first ever long birding trip abroad, ticking in total 117 unique species. Also thanks to Karl Van Ginderdeuren for letting me borrow his 400mm Nikon lens.
I could never have made this trip without the support of Thijs, Charlotte & Margot, who support me and cheer for me in every crazy journey I embark on in life.