Enchanting Egypt | Cairo & Fayoum

20 April 2025

Exploring Egypt's wildlife through time: from ancient whales to modern birds

In November my sister and I embarked on a 4-day journey to Cairo. Of course I could not pass this opportunity to add some African birds to my list in my first real birding year. Although not a birder herself, my sister was happy to participate in the madness. When planning our trip to Cairo, it became clear that the best chance to see some feathered friends was to take a desert trip to Fayoum and roam around the lake Qarun.

Instead of a quick “Pyramids and King Tut” out and back, this trip was a deep dive into Egypt’s rich natural and cultural history, exploring its wildlife across millennia—from sacred animals of ancient Egypt to the prehistoric fossils of Wadi Al-Hitan and the vibrant desert life of today.

Ancient Egypt: sacred animals and their eternal legacy

Our journey began in Cairo at the Pyramids and the Sphinx, our first mystical creature, followed by the Grand Egyptian Museum, a treasure trove of artifacts that offers an unparalleled glimpse into ancient Egyptian civilization. Walking through its galleries, I was again reminded how deeply animals were woven into the spiritual and daily lives of the ancient Egyptians. Cats, crocodiles, bulls but also many birds like falcons and ibises. These animals were often mummified and buried in elaborate ceremonies as offerings or companions for the afterlife. I was particularly fascinated by the craftsmanship involved in preserving these creatures; some mummies were wrapped in ornate patterns or adorned with amulets. These rituals highlight how animals weren’t just part of the ecosystem but also central to Egyptian culture and religion.

From this glimpse into ancient Egypt’s reverence for animals, we traveled even further back in time—to a period when Egypt was submerged under an ancient sea.

The ancient seas: fossils at Wadi Al-Hitan

After leaving Cairo, we ventured into Fayoum’s desert landscapes to visit Wadi Al-Hitan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that felt like stepping into a prehistoric world. Over 40 million years ago, this area was part of the Tethys Sea—a shallow ocean teeming with marine life. Today, it is home to fossilized remains of ancient whales that tell an extraordinary story of evolution. Compared to an average of over 14 million visitors entering the Pyramid complex every year, this UNESCO “only” attracts around 20,000 visitors.

(Figure courtesy of ResearchGate)

The fossils here, including species like Basilosaurus and Dorudon, provide a compelling view on whale evolution, representing a pivotal moment when whales transitioned from land-dwelling mammals to fully aquatic creatures through features like vestigial hind limbs. This evolutionary narrative resonates with Alfred Russel Wallace's work on species distribution and adaptation, which contributed to the theory of natural selection. Wallace's insights into biogeography, as discussed in The Song of the Dodo by David Quammen, highlight the interconnectedness of extinction and evolution, themes echoed in the story of Basilosaurus and its ancient marine ecosystem.

The on-site museum added some depth to our visit with a few displays that reconstructed what this region might have looked like millions of years ago.

The guide told us we could “walk as far as we wanted”, so we diligently started to follow the many signs and took the time to closely observe a few dozen of over 400 skeletons, some astonishingly well-preserved. I felt like I was witnessing nature’s adaptability firsthand when suddenly a 4x4 car with park rangers came to fetch us as the reserve was closing and they thought we had gotten lost.

Modern wildlife around Fayoum and Lake Qarun

As the sun was setting, we got ready for our night in the desert. The Desert Fox camp provided a unique experience of peace, quiet and the solitude a desert can offer.
After an amazing rest, we woke up to find that the desert had not been that quiet during the night after all. Foot prints of gerbils, desert foxes and crows could be found everywhere around our tents.

Fast-forwarding to today, Egypt’s deserts are home to an impressive array of wildlife that has adapted to survive in extreme conditions. During our time at Lake Qarun, I had the chance to observe some incredible bird species that brought this landscape to life. Lake Qarun in Fayoum, Egypt, is an internationally recognized "Important Bird Area" and a crucial stopover point for thousands of birds, including flamingos, grey herons, spoonbills, and various duck species, to take a rest at the lake during their migration. This route is a vital corridor for birds traveling between Europe and Africa, using the lake as a wintering area. Lake Qarun provides essential food, shelter, and breeding grounds for numerous resident and migratory species.

Conclusion

What struck me most about this trip was how seamlessly Wadi Al-Hitan connects past and present. Millions of years ago, this area was underwater; today it is a stark desert where only the hardiest creatures survive. Similarly, Lake Qarun serves as both a sanctuary for migratory birds and a reminder of Egypt’s rich biodiversity.

These contrasts made me reflect on how Egypt’s natural heritage mirrors its human history: layered with stories spanning millennia. From ancient seas to sacred animals and modern wildlife sanctuaries like Lake Qarun, Egypt offers a unique glimpse into life’s resilience and evolution.

If you ever find yourself in Egypt, I highly recommend visiting these sites—not just for their beauty but for their ability to transport you through millions of years of history. It’s a humbling reminder that we’re all part of nature’s grand story.

Big thanks to Desert Fox and in particular to our guide Salah for ensuring we made this trip safely and comfortably.

Birding highlights

1. White-throated Kingfisher
Among my favorite sightings were White-throated Kingfisher, their vivid blue wings flashing as they perched near water.
2. Common Bulbul
Flitting energetically through shrubs; and Laughing Dove, whose soft coos added a serene soundtrack to our explorations
3. African Bee-eater
The most striking birds I saw were the African Bee-eaters, their iridescent plumage shimmering beautifully as they darted gracefully through the air.
4. Cattle Egret
Cattle egrets I also came across numerous Cattle Egret, which stirred memories of my trip to Sulawesi, Indonesia, earlier in April. There too, these elegant birds followed grazing cattle, taking advantage of insects stirred up by their movements. It’s fascinating how these birds adapt so seamlessly across continents.
5. Greater Flamingo
At Lake Qarun, we hoped to see Greater Flamingos—an iconic species known to frequent this area—but only found one deceased specimen along the shoreline. While it was bittersweet, I took a photo to commemorate its life and reflect on how nature’s cycle continues uninterrupted.